How to Stretch Chain Link Fence Fabric: Tension, Tools & Technique

Stretching chain link fabric is where amateur installations reveal themselves. A properly stretched chain link fence looks clean, hangs straight, and resists sagging for 20+ years. An improperly stretched fence sags within months, creates an unprofessional appearance, and compromises security.

The AFA's Fence Installation School chain link discipline covers stretching as a multi-step process involving specific tools, techniques, and safety considerations. Here's the professional method.

Tools Required

• Come-along (cable puller) or fence stretcher bar: The primary tool for pulling fabric tight between terminal posts
• Tension bar: A flat metal bar woven through the end of the fabric to distribute pulling force evenly
• Tension bands: Bolt-on bands that secure the tension bar to the terminal post
• Pliers: For tie wire installation
• Aluminum or galvanized tie wire: For attaching fabric to top rail and line posts
• Hog ring pliers and rings: Alternative to tie wire at some connection points
• Bolt cutters: For cutting excess fabric

The Stretching Process

Step 1: Unroll Fabric

Lay the chain link fabric on the ground along the fence line, inside the posts. Starting at one terminal post, unroll toward the opposite terminal.

AFA safety note: The training warns that installers must pay particular attention to "tension on mesh while stretching — it can be snagged on ground or framework." Keep the fabric free of obstructions as you unroll.

Step 2: Attach to First Terminal Post

• Weave a tension bar through the end of the fabric (through every other diamond)
• Stand the fabric up against the first terminal post
• Secure the tension bar to the post using tension bands and bolts — typically 3–4 bands evenly spaced

Step 3: Pull to Proper Tension

• At the opposite terminal post, weave another tension bar through the fabric
• Attach the come-along or fence stretcher to the tension bar
• Anchor the other end of the come-along to the terminal post or a solid anchor point
• Pull slowly and evenly

How tight is "right"? This is the critical judgment call. Per industry practice:

• The fabric should be taut enough that it doesn't sag between posts
• When you push on the fabric at mid-span between two line posts, it should deflect no more than 1–2 inches
• The diamond pattern should be slightly elongated from its relaxed shape — but not stretched flat
• Over-tensioning distorts the diamond pattern noticeably and puts excessive force on terminal posts

The knuckle test: Squeeze a diamond at mid-span between two posts. You should be able to compress it about ¼ inch with moderate finger pressure. If it doesn't compress at all, it's over-tight. If it compresses easily, it's too loose.

Step 4: Secure to Second Terminal Post

Once tension is correct:

• Mark where the fabric meets the terminal post
• Remove excess fabric by unweaving a strand (creating a clean edge)
• Weave a tension bar through the cut end
• Secure to the terminal post with tension bands

Step 5: Tie to Framework

Attach the fabric to the top rail and line posts using tie wires:

• Top rail ties: Every 24 inches along the top rail. Wrap aluminum tie wire around the top rail and through the fabric.
• Line post ties: Every 12–14 inches vertically on each line post.

The AFA training notes that even temporarily untied mesh can fall over — tie as you go.

Step 6: Bottom Tension Wire

Run a tension wire along the bottom of the fabric:

• Attach to one terminal post with a brace band
• Thread through the bottom diamonds of the chain link
• Pull taut and secure to the opposite terminal post
• This prevents the bottom edge from being pushed up (pet escape, security breach)

Splicing Chain Link Fabric

When you need to join two pieces of fabric (running out of a roll mid-run, or patching a section), the AFA training covers splicing:

• Unweave the last strand from one piece
• Overlap the two pieces by one diamond width
• Thread the removed strand back through both pieces, weaving it through alternating diamonds
• Bend the strand ends at top and bottom to lock

A clean splice is nearly invisible in the finished fence.

Bias Cutting

When chain link meets a terminal post at an angle (corners, offsets), the fabric must be "bias cut" — cut diagonally through the mesh to create a clean edge that follows the angle.

Per the AFA training, bias cutting and center bias are specific techniques for creating clean terminations at non-standard angles.

Common Stretching Mistakes

1. Under-Tensioning

The most common mistake. Results in sagging fabric that looks sloppy and defeats security purposes. Under-tensioned fabric also allows wind to billow it, putting cyclical stress on posts.

2. Over-Tensioning

Pulls terminal posts inward, bends line posts, and distorts the diamond pattern into flat parallelograms. Over-tensioned fabric may also break tie wires as it tries to contract in cold weather.

3. Not Using Enough Tie Wires

Skimping on tie wires saves a few minutes but creates loose spots where the fabric pulls away from the framework. Follow the spacing: every 24" on top rail, every 12–14" on line posts.

4. Stretching in Cold Weather

Chain link fabric contracts in cold temperatures. A fence stretched tight in winter may become over-tight in summer as the metal expands. In Chicago, Minneapolis, and cold-climate markets, stretch slightly less than you would in warm weather.

5. Ignoring the Bottom Wire

Skipping the bottom tension wire saves 10 minutes and creates a gap that dogs, wildlife, and debris exploit for years. Always install a bottom tension wire.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I stretch chain link by hand?

For very short runs (under 20 feet), maybe — but the result won't be as uniform as using a come-along or fence stretcher. For any run over 20 feet, proper tools are essential. Tool rental: $40–$60/day.

How do I fix sagging chain link?

Disconnect from one terminal post, re-stretch with a come-along, and reattach. See our chain link repair guide for the full process.

What gauge tie wire should I use?

Aluminum tie wire (6.5 gauge or 9 gauge) is standard for residential chain link. Use the same metal as the fabric coating (aluminum ties for galvanized chain link) to prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.

Should I hire a pro for chain link installation?

Stretching is the step that separates professional-quality chain link from amateur. If you're uncomfortable with the come-along and tension judgment, hiring a pro for a clean installation is worth it. See our DIY vs pro guide.

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*Stretching, tying, splicing, and bias cutting procedures per American Fence Association Fence Installation School chain link discipline (ASTM F567-07).*